Sample Lesson on Razors

Capsule 4: Razors

Razors are the sharpest and most delicate cutting implements used by barber stylists. There are two types:

  • Conventional Straight Razor: for superior service, the barber stylist should use only the highest quality razor. It must be honed and stropped to maintain its cutting edge.
  • Changeable Blade Straight Razor: are most popular because they are easier to sanitize, they do not require honing and stropping and they have a lighter weight, which makes them easier to work with.

Structural Parts of a Straight Razor:

  1. Head
  2. Point
  3. Edge
  4. Blade
  5. Heal
  6. Handle
  7. Back
  8. Shoulder
  9. Shank
  10. Pivot
  11. Tang

Razor Balance: this refers to the weight and length of the blade as compared to that of the handle. A razor is properly balanced when the weight of the blade is equal to the weight of the handle. This allows for greater ease and safety during shaving.

Razor Temper: this is the heat treatment given to the metal during the manufacturing process. When properly tempered the metal acquires the degree of hardness required for a good cutting edge.

Razor Grinds: this is the shape of the blade after it has been ground. There are two general types:

  • Concave or hollow grind: most preferred because the resistance of the beard can be easily felt, thus warning the barber to check the sharpness.
  • Wedge grind: both sides of the blade form a sharp angle at the extreme edge of the razor; it is most common on old types of razors. It gives an excellent shave, but is difficult to master the sharpening process.

Razor Finish: this is the polished surface. It may be plain steel, crocus (polished steel), or plated with nickel or silver. The crocus is recommended and is the most popular, as it doesn't wear off, lasts longer, and doesn't rust as easily.

Razor Size: this is measured by the length and width of the blade. The width is measured in eighths or sixteenths of an inch (ex. 5/8 and 9/16, which are the most common two sizes with the 5/8 being the most popular).

Razor Care: after use the razor should be cleaned, stropped, and a little oil applied to the cutting edge. When closing the razor be careful that the cutting edge does not strike the handle.