Capsule 1: Nail Tips
A nail tip is a plastic, pre-molded nail shaped from a tough polymer made from ABS plastic or tenite acetate. They are adhered to the natural nail to add extra length and to serve as a support for nail enhancement products such as acrylics, wraps, or gel nails. If a client chooses to wear nail tips without an overlay, the tips are considered a temporary service, as tips alone are not durable.
Most tips have a shallow depression on the underside called a "well" that serves as the point of contact with the nail plate. The "position stop" is the point where the free edge of the natural nail meets the tip, and where the well of the tip "stops". The well of the tip can either be partial (also known as half-well tips) full well, and in a few cases well-less (no well at all).
Capsule 2: Other Supplies Needed For Nail Tipping
In addition to your basic manicuring setup you will need to add the following:
- Abrasives: these are thin elongated boards with "sandpaper-like" surfaces. They come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and coarsenesses called grits. The lower the number of the abrasive the coarser it is, the higher the number the smoother it is. For tip application you will need a medium grit abrasive (240), and a fine grit abrasive (340 or higher).
- Buffer Block: another form of abrasive used to smooth small inconsistencies from the nails before buffing to a high-gloss shine. Can also be used to remove the shine and oil residue from natural nails prior to applying tips.
- Nail adhesive: the bonding agent used to secure the tip to the natural nail. There are many different adhesive to choose from and range greatly in viscosity, the thickness or thinness of the adhesive. Gel-like adhesives, which have a high viscosity, take longer to dry than a thinner adhesive, but allow the nail technician more control. *Note: nail professionals should always wear protective eyewear when using nail adhesives.
- Nail dehydrator/cleanser: this is used to clean the surface of the nail prior to the application of the tip. It removes any moisture and bacteria on the surface of the nail and will greatly improve adhesion.
- Nail Tips: come in boxes of 100 to 500, with sizes 0 to 10. The smaller the number is the larger the tip is. Tips should fit across the client's nail completely from side wall to side wall and should never cover more than a 1/3 of the length of the natural nail. (If one tip is too small and the next size up is too big, use the bigger one and custom shape it with an abrasive on the side walls to make it fit.)
- Tip Cutter: a device made especially for cutting nail tips. You can also use large nail clippers.
Capsule 3: Points to Watch for During the Application Procedure
For a complete procedure on nail tipping refer to the Tipping Procedure Handout.
- When removing the shine from natural nails buff with a medium/fine abrasive, anything coarser will damage the nail.
- When sizing the nail tips it is recommended to "pre-blend" the nail tips. This means reducing the thickness of the well by filing the contact area. This is done so that blending after application will be less likely to damage the natural nail.
- Most dehydrators come in a bottle with its own brush, however, it is recommended to apply with a cotton-tipped orangewood stick or to spray it on to prevent contamination to the product.
- Most instructions say to apply the adhesive to the free edge of the nail plate. Another, more sanitary way is to apply the glue directly to the well of the tip. This will also help to prevent air pockets between the natural nail and the tip.
- Slide the tips onto the free edge of the nails to the stop point at a 45-degree angle, slowly rock the tip down to the surface of the nail plate and hold steady for 5-10 seconds until the glue dries. This is called the "stop, rock, and hold" method.
- Some technicians apply an additional bead of glue to the seam where the tip meets the natural nail. It is said to help strengthen the stress point.
- When blending the tip to the natural nail, keep your abrasive board flat at all times to prevent gouging the nail's surface.
Capsule 4: Tip Removal
Removing tips improperly can cause damage to the natural nail. Never nip off nail tips as you can cause permanent damage to the nail bed.
- Soak the nails in tip remover or acetone to soften them. Place enough remover in a small glass bowl to cover the nails. Soak for about 10 minutes.
- Slide the softened tip off the nails surface with an orangewood stick.
- Gently buff the surface of the nail with a fine block buffer to remove any glue residue.
- Condition the cuticle and surrounding skin with cuticle oil and lotion.